A Magazine #5: Martine Sitbon

Nathalie Ours, editor in chief

Having graduated from the Studio Berçot, Martine Sitbon launched her own label in 1986 and presented her first show in Paris, which famously combined the spirit of Alice in Wonderland, technicoloured hues and black dandy suits and a Velvet Underground soundtrack.
With an important record of collections and an eclectic mix of sources, she quickly became the cult designer. Martine Sitbon blends vintage chic, historic references, an urban toughness and a wispy femininity to produce
pieces that are distinctive. The duality has made her a significant force in fashion. She draws on an eclectic mix of sources and has consistently explored contemporary themes. Rock music, especially from the late 60s and
early 80s, has often been a strong inspiration. But through a dichotomic process – an intention to mix opposites and work with contrasts – Martine Sitbon also offered a vision populated by strange dolls, cheeky and nonchalant dandies, harnessed warriors and vinyl-clad Barbarellas. The tough and the angelic, the masculine and the infantile, the rock’n’roll and the naivety successfully mingled. By taking couture elements like bows and flowers, but reworking them in a spontaneous, modern, comfortable way, Martine Sitbon succeeded in expressing a unique modernity.

The idea underlying this edition is to decipher step by step the creative process specific to the designer. Over a 6-month period, A MAGAZINE will strive to carefully depict the construction of the new label ‘Rue du Mail
designed by Martine Sitbon’, focussing on her research process, her professional encounters as well as on her numerous discoveries.

Along this main thread, from reports to conversations, many figureheads close to Martine Sitbon’s environment will enrich the editorial segment of the magazine: Marc Ascoli, Julie Verhoeven, Sofia Coppola, Zoe Cassavetes,
Craig McDean, Marie Rucki from Studio Berçot, Andrée Putmann, Anette Messager, Nick Knight and Anna Sui, to name but a few.